Gathering Your Supplies: What You’ll Need for Stringing
Alright, so you’re ready to tackle restringing your 12-string? Fantastic! Before we dive into the actual process, let’s make sure you’ve got everything you need laid out and ready to go. Having your tools and materials organized will make the whole process smoother and less frustrating.
Essential Items
First things first, you’ll obviously need a fresh set of 12-string guitar strings. Don’t try to reuse old strings – they’ve already stretched out and lost their tone. When choosing strings, consider the gauge (thickness) you prefer. Lighter gauge strings are easier to bend and play, while heavier gauge strings offer a richer, fuller sound. Experiment to find what feels and sounds best to you. Many manufacturers offer sets specifically designed for 12-string guitars, which simplifies the selection process. It’s a good idea to have a couple of spare strings on hand, just in case one breaks during the process. Trust me, it happens!
Next up, you’ll need a string winder. This handy little tool makes turning the tuning pegs much faster and easier, especially with the doubled strings of a 12-string. While you can technically tune by hand, a string winder will save you a lot of time and wrist strain. Look for one with a comfortable grip and a good turning mechanism.
Wire cutters are also essential. After you’ve strung the guitar, you’ll need to trim the excess string ends. Regular wire cutters will work just fine, but you can also find specialized string cutters designed for guitars. These often have a built-in notch to help prevent string slippage when cutting.
A tuner is crucial for getting your guitar in tune. There are various types of tuners available, including clip-on tuners, handheld tuners, and even tuning apps for your smartphone. Choose the one that suits your preference and budget. Accurate tuning is especially important on a 12-string, as even slight discrepancies in pitch can create disharmony.
Having a comfortable workspace is also helpful. A table or desk where you can easily access your tools and the guitar is ideal. Good lighting is essential, especially when working with the finer strings. A neck support or stand can also be beneficial, as it elevates the guitar and makes it easier to work on.
Optional, but Helpful Items
While not strictly necessary, a few additional items can make the restringing process even smoother. A string peg winder is a useful tool that helps insert the string ends into the tuning pegs quickly and efficiently. A bridge pin puller can make removing the old bridge pins easier, minimizing the risk of damaging the bridge. Finally, a microfiber cloth is handy for wiping down the guitar and fretboard after you’ve finished restringing. It’s a good opportunity to give your instrument a little TLC.
| Item | Description | Necessity |
|---|---|---|
| 12-String Guitar Strings | A fresh set, consider gauge and spares. | Essential |
| String Winder | Makes tuning faster and easier. | Essential |
| Wire Cutters | For trimming excess string ends. | Essential |
| Tuner | For accurate tuning. | Essential |
| Comfortable Workspace | Table, good lighting, and possibly a neck support. | Essential |
| String Peg Winder | Helps insert string ends into tuning pegs. | Optional |
| Bridge Pin Puller | Helps remove bridge pins safely. | Optional |
| Microfiber Cloth | For cleaning the guitar. | Optional |
Identifying the Strings: A 12-String Guitar String Layout
Stringing a 12-string guitar can seem daunting at first, but once you understand the layout and pairing of the strings, it becomes a manageable task. The key lies in knowing which string goes where and how they’re arranged in octaves or unisons. This section will guide you through identifying each string and its corresponding partner.
String Pairs and Their Relationship
Unlike a standard six-string guitar, a 12-string has six pairs of strings. Four of these pairs are octaves, meaning one string is tuned an octave higher than its partner. The remaining two pairs are tuned in unison, meaning both strings are tuned to the same pitch. Understanding this fundamental difference is crucial for proper stringing.
Decoding the Octave and Unison Pairs
Let’s break down which pairs are octaves and which are unisons. Starting with the lowest string (thickest gauge) and working our way up to the highest (thinnest gauge):
- E (lowest): This pair is tuned in unison. Both strings are tuned to the low E.
- B: This pair is tuned in octaves. The thinner string is tuned an octave higher than the thicker string.
- G: This pair is tuned in octaves. The thinner string is tuned an octave higher than the thicker string.
- D: This pair is tuned in octaves. The thinner string is tuned an octave higher than the thicker string.
- A: This pair is tuned in octaves. The thinner string is tuned an octave higher than the thicker string.
- E (highest): This pair is tuned in unison. Both strings are tuned to the high E.
Think of it this way: the lower four pairs (E, B, G, and D) follow the same octave pairing pattern as the higher four pairs (G, D, A, and E) on a standard six-string. This can be a helpful mnemonic device for remembering the layout.
Understanding this octave/unison arrangement not only helps with stringing but also contributes to the characteristic shimmering, chorus-like sound of a 12-string guitar. The octaves add depth and richness, while the unison pairs provide a strong fundamental tone.
Another important consideration is the gauge (thickness) of the strings within each pair. Typically, the octave string (the higher-pitched string in the octave pairs) is significantly thinner than its partner. The unison pairs, however, will have similar gauges, with one sometimes being imperceptibly thinner. Look closely at the string packaging—most manufacturers clearly label each string with its corresponding pair and tuning. This helps prevent confusion and ensures proper installation.
Finally, visualizing the string layout can be particularly helpful for beginners. Here’s a table summarizing the information we’ve covered:
| String Pair | Tuning Relationship | Typical Gauge Relationship |
|---|---|---|
| Low E | Unison | Similar Gauge |
| B | Octave | Thinner/Thicker |
| G | Octave | Thinner/Thicker |
| D | Octave | Thinner/Thicker |
| A | Octave | Thinner/Thicker |
| High E | Unison | Similar Gauge |
By familiarizing yourself with this table and the descriptions above, you’ll be well-equipped to correctly identify and string your 12-string guitar.
Preparing the New Strings: Unwinding and Measuring
Getting your new strings ready for the restringing process is a crucial first step. It involves carefully unwinding them and getting a general sense of their length to avoid tangles and ensure a smoother process. This preparation is especially important with 12-string guitars, given the doubled sets of strings.
Unwinding the Strings
New strings typically come tightly coiled in a protective package. Don’t just rip them open and let them spring free! This can lead to kinks and even damage the strings. Instead, carefully remove the outer packaging and gently loosen the coils. As you unwind each string, take a moment to identify its corresponding octave string (the thinner of the pair). Keep the pairs together – you can use small zip-top bags or even just lay them out in order on a clean, flat surface. This organization prevents mix-ups later during the stringing process.
Measuring for a 12-String
While not strictly mandatory, pre-measuring your strings before installing them can be incredibly helpful, particularly on a 12-string guitar. Because of the higher string tension and doubled strings, having a general idea of the necessary length beforehand can streamline the process and avoid unnecessary winding on the tuning posts. This pre-measuring also helps prevent excessive slack which can lead to slippage and tuning instability. Here’s a simple trick: loosely lay each string along the path it will take from the bridge pin (or tailpiece) to its corresponding tuning post, leaving enough extra length to wrap around the tuning post a few times. This “extra” length depends on the gauge of the string and the style of your tuning machines, generally about 2-3 inches. Thicker strings require more winding length, so err on the side of slightly more length if you’re unsure.
Detailed String Length Estimation
Accurately estimating string length is especially beneficial for a 12-string because of the increased number of strings and the potential for tangling. Here’s a more detailed approach. You can refer to the table below for estimated lengths, but these should be adjusted based on your specific guitar and string gauge. Remember, it’s always better to have a little extra string length than not enough.
| String Pair Number | Octave String (estimated length) | Regular String (estimated length) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 (E) | 35-37 inches | 34-36 inches |
| 2 (B) | 35-37 inches | 34-36 inches |
| 3 (G) | 35-37 inches | 34-36 inches |
| 4 (D) | 35-37 inches | 34-36 inches |
| 5 (A) | 35-37 inches | 34-36 inches |
| 6 (E) | 35-37 inches | 34-36 inches |
These lengths are rough estimates. Factors such as the break angle over the bridge, the type of tuning machines, and individual guitar variations will affect the actual length needed. Observe the winding of the old strings before removing them to get a better visual guide. By taking the time to measure or at least visualize the required length, you’ll make the stringing process significantly smoother and reduce the risk of problems later on.
Installing the Strings at the Bridge: Securing the Foundation
The bridge of your 12-string guitar is where the strings anchor, transferring their vibrations to the soundboard. Properly installing the strings here is crucial for good intonation, sustain, and overall playability. It’s also where you’ll encounter the unique challenge of managing twice the number of strings compared to a standard six-string.
Understanding the Bridge
12-string bridges come in a few different styles, including pin bridges, tailpiece bridges, and through-body bridges. Familiarize yourself with your guitar’s specific bridge type before you begin. This will prevent unnecessary headaches and potential damage to your instrument. Some bridges have individual string slots, while others use a single slot for each octave pair.
String Identification and Order
Before you start, lay out your new set of strings and identify each one. 12-string sets come with octave pairs, usually packaged or color-coded to indicate which strings go together. It’s essential to keep these pairs organized. Pay close attention to the string gauges – they will vary between the octave and lower strings. Generally, the thinner string of the octave pair is placed closest to the center of the neck. You can refer to the packaging or online resources for your specific string set’s arrangement if needed.
Preparing the Bridge Pins (For Pin Bridges)
If your guitar has a pin bridge, make sure the bridge pins are properly positioned and ready to receive the strings. Check for any loose or damaged pins. Replace any damaged pins with appropriately sized replacements before proceeding. A bridge pin puller can be a handy tool for safely removing existing pins.
Installing the Strings
Start by inserting the ball end of each string into its corresponding hole or slot in the bridge. For pin bridges, ensure the ball end sits securely beneath the bridge pin. For tailpiece bridges, the ball ends will anchor in the tailpiece itself. With through-body bridges, the strings will pass through the body of the guitar and secure at the back.
Securing the Strings at the Bridge - A Detailed Look
This process differs slightly depending on the bridge type. Here’s a more detailed breakdown:
Pin Bridges
Once the ball end is inserted, position the bridge pin over the string and press it firmly into place. The string should be held taut by the pin. Angle the pin slightly towards the neck of the guitar as you insert it. This helps ensure the string is held securely and minimizes slippage. Use a bridge pin installer or a hard, flat surface to press the pins in completely. Be careful not to damage the bridge or surrounding finish. Double-check that each pin is flush with the bridge.
Tailpiece Bridges
With tailpiece bridges, ensure each string’s ball end is properly seated in the tailpiece. The string will then pass over the bridge saddle and towards the tuning pegs. Check that each string sits correctly in the saddle grooves. This is crucial for intonation.
Through-Body Bridges
For through-body bridges, after threading the strings through the back of the guitar, secure them using the appropriate method for your specific guitar model. This might involve tying knots, using ferrules, or other specialized hardware. Consult your guitar’s documentation for specific instructions.
Here’s a handy table summarizing the key differences:
| Bridge Type | String Securing Method |
|---|---|
| Pin Bridge | Bridge pins holding ball ends |
| Tailpiece Bridge | Ball ends anchored in the tailpiece |
| Through-Body Bridge | Strings pass through body and secured at the back (methods vary) |
Once all 12 strings are securely anchored at the bridge, you’re ready to move on to the tuning pegs and bring your 12-string to life.
Winding the Strings at the Tuning Posts: Achieving Proper Tension
Stringing a 12-string guitar requires a bit more finesse than its 6-string counterpart, especially when it comes to achieving proper tension. This process is crucial not only for tuning stability but also for the longevity of your strings and the overall health of your guitar. Here’s a detailed guide to help you master this essential skill.
Understanding String Order and Placement
Before you begin winding, ensure you have correctly identified each string and its corresponding tuning post. 12-string guitars are typically arranged in pairs, with one thicker string and one thinner string for each note. The thinner string of each pair is tuned an octave higher than its thicker counterpart, except for the two lowest strings (E and B) which are tuned in unison. Familiarize yourself with this arrangement to avoid confusion during the stringing process.
Preparing the Tuning Posts
Make sure your tuning posts are turning smoothly. If they feel stiff or gritty, a small drop of lubricating oil can help. Ensure the holes in the posts are aligned to accept the strings easily. This will prevent unnecessary kinks and ensure a clean wind around the post.
Inserting the Strings
Insert the string through the appropriate hole in the tuning post, leaving enough slack to allow for a few winds around the post. The amount of slack will vary depending on the string gauge and the tuning post itself, but a good rule of thumb is to have enough to reach the adjacent tuning post.
Initial Winding: Creating the Anchor
The first few winds are crucial for creating a secure anchor. As you begin turning the tuning post, guide the string neatly beneath itself, creating a small loop. This loop acts as a lock, preventing the string from slipping. Maintain tension on the string as you wind to ensure a tight and even wrap.
Subsequent Winds: Maintaining Neatness and Tension
Continue winding the string neatly around the post, ensuring the winds lie close together without overlapping. Keep the string taut to prevent slack from developing. Aim for a consistent winding pattern to avoid kinks and promote tuning stability.
Fine-Tuning and Stretching: The Final Touches
Achieving Stable Tuning on Your 12-String
Once the string is wound and brought close to its desired pitch, begin fine-tuning using the tuning pegs. On a 12-string, it’s especially important to tune slowly and carefully, constantly checking both strings in the pair. Due to the higher tension and dual-string setup, 12-strings are more prone to tuning instability if the strings aren’t properly stretched.
Stretching the strings is a vital step in achieving stable tuning. Gently pull each string upwards, away from the fretboard, repeating this several times for each string pair. Retune as needed after each stretching cycle. This process helps to eliminate slack and ensure the strings settle into their new tension. Be mindful not to overstretch, especially with the thinner octave strings, as this can lead to breakage.
A properly stretched and tuned 12-string will hold its tuning much longer and offer a more enjoyable playing experience. Don’t rush the process; take your time and focus on achieving even tension across all string pairs.
| String Pair | Octave/Unison | Tuning Post Placement |
|---|---|---|
| E (lowest) | Unison | Outermost posts on either side of the headstock |
| B | Unison | Second posts from the outside |
| G | Octave | Third posts from the outside |
| D | Octave | Fourth posts from the outside |
| A | Octave | Fifth posts from the outside |
| E (highest) | Octave | Innermost posts |
Trimming Excess String
Once all strings are tuned and stretched, trim the excess string length using wire cutters. Be careful not to cut too close to the tuning post, leaving enough length for the string to remain securely anchored.
Fine-Tuning and Intonation: Precision Adjustments for Optimal Sound
8. Fine-Tuning and Intonation
Now that you’ve strung your 12-string, it’s time for the crucial step of fine-tuning and intonation. This is where you’ll dial in the precise pitch of each string and ensure that your guitar plays in tune across the entire fretboard. It’s a bit more involved than a standard six-string, given the doubled strings, but the payoff is a beautifully harmonious and resonant sound.
Using an Electronic Tuner
An electronic tuner is your best friend in this process. Clip-on tuners are particularly convenient for 12-strings as they minimize interference from other strings. Tune each course of strings individually. Remember, each course comprises two strings tuned to the same note (or an octave apart in the case of the higher strings). So, you’ll be tuning as if you have six sets of strings rather than twelve individual ones.
Start with the lowest E string (the thicker of the two E strings) and work your way up, tuning each course to the standard tuning: E A D G B E. The lower four courses (E A D G) are tuned in octaves, meaning the thinner string in each course is tuned an octave higher than the thicker one. The two highest courses (B and high E) are tuned in unison, meaning both strings are tuned to the same note.
Stretching the Strings
New strings stretch, and this will cause them to go flat quickly. To counteract this, gently stretch each string after tuning. Pull the string upwards away from the fretboard, being careful not to pull too hard. Retune and repeat this process a few times until the strings hold their tuning more consistently.
Checking and Adjusting Intonation
Intonation refers to the accuracy of a string’s pitch along the fretboard. If the intonation is off, the guitar will sound out of tune even if the open strings are tuned correctly. To check the intonation, compare the pitch of the 12th fret harmonic (lightly touch the string above the 12th fret and pluck) with the 12th fret fretted note. These two notes should be the same pitch.
If the fretted note is sharper than the harmonic, the string needs to be lengthened. Adjust the saddle for that string further back towards the tailpiece by turning the intonation screw clockwise. If the fretted note is flatter than the harmonic, the string needs to be shortened. Adjust the saddle forward towards the nut by turning the intonation screw counter-clockwise. Small adjustments are key here. Make minute turns and retune the string after each adjustment.
Intonation Adjustments: Key Points
Be patient. Intonation can be a bit fiddly, especially on a 12-string. Take your time and make small adjustments.
| String Pitch Comparison at 12th Fret | Adjustment Needed | Saddle Movement | Screw Direction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fretted note sharper than harmonic | Lengthen string | Towards tailpiece | Clockwise |
| Fretted note flatter than harmonic | Shorten string | Towards nut | Counter-clockwise |
Once the intonation is set, retune the guitar one last time and you’re ready to enjoy the rich, full sound of your perfectly tuned 12-string!
Stringing a 12-String Guitar
Stringing a 12-string guitar can appear daunting due to the doubled strings, but with a methodical approach, it’s manageable. The fundamental principles are similar to stringing a 6-string, with the added consideration of maintaining proper string pairings and tension. It’s crucial to identify the octave and unison strings for each course and ensure they’re installed in the correct positions on the bridge and tuning posts. Using a string winder can significantly expedite the process and minimize hand fatigue. Furthermore, stretching the new strings after installation is vital to achieving tuning stability and preventing slippage during playing. Given the increased tension on a 12-string’s neck, monitoring the neck relief and adjusting the truss rod if necessary after stringing is a good preventative maintenance practice. Finally, meticulous attention to detail and patience are key to a successful string change.
People Also Ask About Stringing a 12-String Guitar
Which strings go where on a 12-string guitar?
Understanding the string arrangement is crucial. The lower four courses (E, A, D, and G) typically consist of an octave pair, with the thinner string tuned an octave higher than the thicker one. The thinner string is usually placed closer to the center of the fretboard. The two highest courses (B and high E) are usually unison pairs, meaning both strings are tuned to the same pitch. Always consult the string manufacturer’s packaging or your guitar’s documentation for specific recommendations, as variations can exist.
Octave Strings vs. Unison Strings
Octave strings create the characteristic shimmering sound of a 12-string. These pairs consist of one string at the regular pitch and a thinner string tuned an octave higher. Unison strings are tuned to the same pitch and add fullness and volume. They’re commonly used for the B and high E strings to avoid excessive brightness and string breakage.
How do you avoid string breakage when stringing a 12-string?
Several factors contribute to string breakage, particularly on 12-strings. Ensure you’re using the correct string gauge recommended by the manufacturer. Overwinding during tuning is a common culprit; bring the strings up to pitch gradually. Properly lubricating the nut and bridge saddles with graphite or a specialized lubricant can reduce friction and prevent strings from binding and snapping. Avoid sharp bends in the strings, especially around the tuning posts. Lastly, be mindful of the increased tension and avoid aggressively bending the strings immediately after installation.
What kind of strings are best for a 12-string guitar?
String choice depends on playing style and desired tone. Lighter gauge strings are easier to play and bend, but can sacrifice some volume and projection. Heavier gauges offer a fuller sound but require more finger strength. Various materials, like 80/20 bronze, phosphor bronze, and coated strings, offer different tonal characteristics and lifespans. Experimentation is key to finding the ideal strings for your instrument and preferences. Consulting with a guitar technician or experienced 12-string player can also be beneficial.
Do you tune a 12-string guitar differently?
A 12-string is tuned to the same standard EADGBe tuning as a 6-string. The difference lies in the doubled strings. The lower four courses (EADG) are typically octave pairs, with one string tuned an octave higher than its partner. The two higher strings (B and high E) are usually unison pairs, both tuned to the same pitch. Some players may opt for alternative tunings for specific stylistic effects, but standard tuning is the most common.